Carnival in Jacmel, Haiti

Sleepy Caribean Town Explodes with Parades, Hatian Art & Masks

Feb 18, 2009 James W. Coates

A Haiti vacation becomes a Haitian experience during Carnival in Jacmel, a time when the country's problems melt away and this Caribbean island explodes in festivities.

Haitians know how to throw a party, and they do it best in Jacmel, an arty seaside village 75 km southwest of Port-au-Prince. Well-known for its disorder, poverty, natural disasters, political strife and Voodoo dolls, come carnival time, Haiti’s problems take the back burner as the country bubbles over into a time filled with art, dance and song.

The origins of carnival have been disputed; in Haiti, however, it has strong links to the deeply implanted Catholic and Voodoo religions. But mostly Carnival is a time of debauchery, before Lent and forty days of sacrifice leading to Easter.

Mid-February, until the weekend before Ash Wednesday, Jacmel's celebrations get bigger and better, dwarfing even those of the nation's capital. Long renown as a haven for the country's artist community and a relative tourist hot spot, the people themselves host the show, without much support financially from the government, making the carnival an intricate weave of artists and those who love art.

Jacmel – Haiti’s Papier Maché Capital

Much smaller than other carnivals occurring around the Caribbean and South America, Jacmel's Carnival distinguishes itself through its famous papier maché masks. Jumping off the canvases of Haiti’s art naive paintings, these exquisite, brightly decorated masks and full body costumes, spring to life in a parade of colour and dance that would impress at any carnival in the world.

Just after noon on the first Sunday of Carnival week, the parade begins with an orgy of colours and a menagerie of multi-colored costumes topped with vibrant masks depicting parrots, horses, frogs and enormous snakes, as well as animals that don’t inhabit the island such as zebras, apes, giraffes, elephants and rhinoceroses along with world figures and local heroes, and imaginary animals straight out of the twisted minds of their crafters.

Haitian Voodoo Boys

Following the mask show, which flirts with fun and innocence, enchanted and scantly clad men soaked in black paint roam the streets in chains. With bulging red eyes and lips, seemingly possessed by otherworldly spirits, they take great pleasure in chasing onlookers and scaring kids.

Other parade highlights include the procession of the crowned princesses of the Carnival, and the beauty pageant of gorgeous men and women sashaying down the street in traditional and colonial costume.

Visiting Jacmel for Carnival

For the best views of the crowds and the parade, pay a handsome fee and climb up to one of the towering balconies lining the main street from the centre of town. Balconies, fully equipped with stocked bars selling alcoholic beverages to help get into the carnival spirit, also make a great break from the crowd and the stifling mid-day heat.

The parade begins around noon but arrive early to get a good spot, even though everything will start behind schedule. Once everything gets underway, bring earplugs to help drown out the battle of the decibels as each balcony tries to out do the other with its music, cranked to ear-shattering volumes.

Whether it’s to view the papier maché masks, drink in the sun-soaked atmosphere or just let loose and join in the shamelessness of this Caribbean town during a time of celebration, Carnival in Jacmel pleases all the senses.

The copyright of the article Carnival in Jacmel, Haiti in Latin Am/Caribbean Travel is owned by James W. Coates. Permission to republish Carnival in Jacmel, Haiti in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.